My wife and I recently embarked on an unforgettable journey to Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands, located off the coast of County Galway, Ireland. Situated in the North Atlantic at a latitude of 53 degrees North—comparable to Newfoundland in Canada and Southern Alaska—Inishmore experiences variable weather conditions. During our mid-summer visit, temperatures peaked at just 15 degrees Celsius.
Inishmore, meaning “Big Island,” is the largest and most populous of the Aran Islands, with a community of approximately 800 residents. The island is rich in cultural heritage, with Irish remaining the predominant language. Inhabited for over 3,000 years, Inishmore features breathtaking landscapes and ancient historical sites.
Among the island’s highlights are its impressive hill forts, notably Dún Aonghasa. Perched on 100-meter vertical cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, this fort boasts a series of semicircular dry-stone walls, the largest being 5 meters wide and 6 meters high, enclosing 6 hectares. Remarkably, some sections of this ancient structure were built as far back as 1100 BC by Bronze Age civilizations. We visited on a slightly wet and windy day, but as my Northern European spouse often says, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes.”
Inishmore is also home to several ancient churches, with Teampall Bheanain, or St. Benan’s Church, being the most spectacularly located. This tiny 3x2 meter church, dating from the 7th Century, sits high on a ridge with panoramic views of the island. Fortunately, the weather was more favourable during our exploration of the island’s southern end.
Travellers to Inishmore will find that cars are scarce; transportation is primarily by walking, cycling, or using a pony and trap or mini bus on the island’s narrow roads and rugged tracks. We opted for bicycles, but caution is advised. The island’s terrain can be slippery and moss-covered rocks present a risk of falls.
To minimise health risks, wear sturdy footwear and ensure your tetanus vaccination is up to date. Additionally, recent influenza and COVID-19 vaccinations are recommended, along with the Pneumococcal vaccine where appropriate.
While a flight to Inishmore is an option, the ferry ride offers a bracing experience typical of the North Atlantic. Be sure to prepare for potential sea sickness if you are prone. Despite the short crossing, the journey can be quite invigorating.
After a day of exploration, nothing beats the taste of freshly caught lobster, which can be enjoyed at Tí Joe Watty Pub and Seafood Bar in Kilronan, the island’s main town. Pair your meal with a pint of Guinness for the ultimate local experience.
Inishmore is a hidden gem well worth the journey, and we look forward to returning to explore its two smaller neighbouring islands.
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